How to Replace a Sink Stopper with a Modern Pop-up Drain
Your bathroom sink stopper won't hold water, won't pop up, or the linkage under the sink has corroded and seized. Replacing the whole pop-up drain assembly is usually cleaner than patching it.
A pop-up drain is the assembly that lets you open and close a bathroom sink with the small lever behind the faucet. It has three connected parts: the drain body and flange that seal into the sink, the lift rod and pivot mechanism that raise and lower the stopper, and the tailpiece that ties into the P-trap below. Replacing it means sealing the flange so the sink doesn't leak around the drain, then linking the rod and pivot so the stopper seats and lifts smoothly. The work happens in the cramped space under the sink, but it requires no special skills beyond patience and a good seal.
How the job is done
- 1
Disconnect the old assembly
The P-trap and the old pivot rod are disconnected, and the existing drain body is unthreaded from beneath the sink so the worn flange can be pushed up and out of the basin.
- 2
Clean the drain opening
Old plumber's putty, sealant, and grime are scraped off the sink's drain opening so the new flange will seat against a clean, flat surface.
- 3
Seal and install the new drain body
A rope of fresh plumber's putty or the supplied gasket is set under the new flange, the body is threaded up from below with its washer and locknut, and the assembly is tightened so the flange seals to the basin.
- 4
Connect the lift rod and pivot
The pivot rod is inserted into the drain body to capture the stopper, then linked to the lift rod behind the faucet and adjusted so pulling up closes the drain and pushing down opens it.
- 5
Reconnect the trap and test
The tailpiece is joined back to the P-trap, the sink is filled and drained, and the connections and flange are checked for leaks while the stopper is cycled open and shut.
What a pro checks
- Scrapes the old putty fully so the new flange seats flat and seals
- Uses plumber's putty or the included gasket as the manufacturer specifies
- Tightens the locknut enough to seal without cracking the sink
- Adjusts the clevis and lift rod so the stopper seats and lifts fully
- Checks the trap connections for drips after filling the basin
- Wipes away squeezed-out putty for a clean finished look
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Frequently asked questions
Why does my sink leak around the new drain?
The flange seal is the usual cause. Either the locknut needs more tightening or the putty or gasket under the flange wasn't seated evenly. Remove it, reseal with fresh putty, and retighten.
My stopper won't seal the water in. How do I fix it?
Adjust the linkage. Loosen the clevis screw on the lift rod and reposition it so that when the rod is up, the stopper presses down fully into the drain seat.
Do I need plumber's putty or silicone for the flange?
Follow the kit's instructions. Many use plumber's putty under the flange, but some finishes and stone sinks call for a non-staining silicone or the supplied gasket instead.
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