Faucet Repair & Replacement: A Homeowner's Guide
A faucet that drips overnight, sprays sideways, or squeaks every time you turn the handle is more than annoying. The steady drip wastes water and can stain the sink, while a loose or corroded faucet often points to worn cartridges or mineral buildup inside. Many homeowners try tightening the handle, only to find the leak comes right back.
Most faucet trouble traces back to a few small parts: a worn cartridge, a cracked O-ring, a clogged aerator, or a stripped valve seat. A repair makes sense when the faucet body is solid and only the internals are tired, which is common on quality fixtures. Replacement is the smarter call when the finish is flaking, the base is corroded, the model is discontinued, or the faucet has simply been rebuilt one too many times. Hard, mineral-heavy water speeds up scale buildup, so cartridges and aerators in those areas tend to wear faster than the maker intended.
How the job is done
- 1
Shut off the water and confirm it is off
We close the hot and cold shutoff valves under the sink, then open the faucet to release pressure and verify no water flows before any parts come apart.
- 2
Diagnose repair versus replace
We inspect the cartridge, O-rings, aerator, and base for wear or corrosion, then recommend the most cost-effective path instead of automatically selling a new unit.
- 3
Disconnect supply lines and remove the old faucet
Using a basin wrench, we loosen the supply connections and mounting nuts, lift out the old faucet, and clean away old putty and mineral crust from the deck.
- 4
Install new internals or set the new faucet
For a repair we drop in a fresh cartridge and seals; for a replacement we seat the new faucet on a gasket or bead of plumber's putty and secure the mounting hardware level.
- 5
Reconnect water and seal threaded joints
We attach the supply lines, wrapping threaded fittings with PTFE tape, and snug everything hand-tight plus a careful turn so we don't crack the connections.
- 6
Pressure-test and check every joint
We turn the valves back on slowly, run hot and cold, and feel each fitting and the cabinet floor for any sign of a drip before we call it done.
What a pro checks
- A faucet that drips only from the spout usually needs a cartridge or seat repair; one that leaks at the base is more often a worn O-ring or a loose mount.
- We unscrew and soak the aerator in vinegar to clear mineral scale, which fixes a surprising number of 'low pressure' complaints without any new parts.
- A common DIY mistake is overtightening plastic supply nuts, which cracks them and causes a slow leak hours later under the cabinet.
- We always shut both supply valves first, because turning off just one still lets the live side spray when the faucet comes apart.
- Matching the new faucet's hole pattern to the sink (single-hole, centerset, or widespread) prevents the gap-and-plate workarounds that look unfinished.
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Frequently asked questions
Is it worth repairing an old faucet or should I just replace it?
If the faucet body and finish are still in good shape and only the cartridge or seals are worn, a repair is usually the better value. Once the base is corroded, the finish is peeling, or parts are no longer made for that model, replacing it is more reliable.
Why does my faucet have weak water pressure on only one fixture?
It is almost always the aerator, the little screen at the tip of the spout, clogged with mineral sediment. Cleaning or replacing that screen typically restores normal flow, especially in hard-water areas.
Can you reuse my existing supply lines?
Sometimes, if they are flexible braided lines in good condition. We inspect them first, and if they show kinks, corrosion, or stiffness we recommend fresh ones since they are inexpensive insurance against a future leak.
How much does a faucet replacement cost?
It depends on the faucet you choose and the condition of the existing connections and shutoff valves. The most accurate way to find out is to book a visit or request a quote so we can see the setup.
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